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    Contents

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    CHAPTER I.
    My Brother appointed Secretary of Nevada--I Envy His Prospective
    Adventures--Am Appointed Private Secretary Under Him--My Contentment
    Complete--Packed in One Hour--Dreams and Visions--On the Missouri River--
    A Bully Boat

    CHAPTER II.
    Arrive at St. Joseph--Only Twenty-five Pounds Baggage Allowed--Farewell
    to Kid Gloves and Dress Coats--Armed to the Teeth--The "Allen"--A
    Cheerful Weapon--Persuaded to Buy a Mule--Schedule of Luxuries--We Leave
    the "States"--"Our Coach"--Mails for the Indians--Between a Wink and an
    Earthquake--A Modern Sphynx and How She Entertained Us--A Sociable Heifer

    CHAPTER III.
    "The Thoroughbrace is Broke"--Mails Delivered Properly--Sleeping Under
    Difficulties--A Jackass Rabbit Meditating, and on Business--A Modern
    Gulliver--Sage-brush--Overcoats as an Article of Diet--Sad Fate of a
    Camel--Warning to Experimenters

    CHAPTER IV.
    Making Our Bed--Assaults by the Unabridged--At a Station--Our Driver a
    Great and Shining Dignitary--Strange Place for a Frontyard--
    Accommodations--Double Portraits--An Heirloom--Our Worthy Landlord--
    "Fixings and Things"--An Exile--Slumgullion--A Well Furnished Table--The
    Landlord Astonished--Table Etiquette--Wild Mexican Mules--Stage-coaching
    and Railroading

    CHAPTER V.
    New Acquaintances--The Cayote--A Dog's Experiences--A Disgusted Dog--The
    Relatives of the Cayote--Meals Taken Away from Home

    CHAPTER VI.
    The Division Superintendent--The Conductor--The Driver--One Hundred and
    Fifty Miles' Drive Without Sleep--Teaching a Subordinate--Our Old Friend
    Jack and a Pilgrim--Ben Holliday Compared to Moses

    CHAPTER VII.
    Overland City--Crossing the Platte--Bemis's Buffalo Hunt--Assault by a
    Buffalo--Bemis's Horse Goes Crazy--An Impromptu Circus--A New Departure--
    Bemis Finds Refuge in a Tree--Escapes Finally by a Wonderful Method

    CHAPTER VIII.
    The Pony Express--Fifty Miles Without Stopping--"Here he Comes"--Alkali
    Water--Riding an Avalanche--Indian Massacre

    CHAPTER IX.
    Among the Indians--An Unfair Advantage--Laying on our Arms--A Midnight
    Murder--Wrath of Outlaws--A Dangerous, yet Valuable Citizen

    CHAPTER X.
    History of Slade--A Proposed Fist-fight--Encounter with Jules--Paradise
    of Outlaws--Slade as Superintendent--As Executioner--A Doomed Whisky
    Seller--A Prisoner--A Wife's Bravery--An Ancient Enemy Captured--Enjoying
    a Luxury--Hob-nobbing with Slade--Too Polite--A Happy Escape

    CHAPTER XI.
    Slade in Montana--"On a Spree"--In Court--Attack on a Judge--Arrest by
    the Vigilantes--Turn out of the Miners--Execution of Slade--Lamentations
    of His Wife--Was Slade a Coward?

    CHAPTER XII.
    A Mormon Emigrant Train--The Heart of the Rocky Mountains--Pure
    Saleratus--A Natural Ice-House--An Entire Inhabitant--In Sight of
    "Eternal Snow"--The South Pass--The Parting Streams--An Unreliable Letter
    Carrier--Meeting of Old Friends--A Spoiled Watermelon--Down the Mountain-
    -A Scene of Desolation--Lost in the Dark--Unnecessary Advice--U.S. Troops
    and Indians--Sublime Spectacle--Another Delusion Dispelled--Among the
    Angels

    CHAPTER XIII.
    Mormons and Gentiles--Exhilarating Drink, and its Effect on Bemis--Salt
    Lake City--A Great Contrast--A Mormon Vagrant--Talk with a Saint--A Visit
    to the "King"--A Happy Simile

    CHAPTER XIV.
    Mormon Contractors--How Mr. Street Astonished Them--The Case Before
    Brigham Young, and How he Disposed of it--Polygamy Viewed from a New
    Position

    CHAPTER XV.
    A Gentile Den--Polygamy Discussed--Favorite Wife and D. 4--Hennery for
    Retired Wives--Children Need Marking--Cost of a Gift to No. 6--A Penny-
    whistle Gift and its Effects--Fathering the Foundlings--It Resembled Him
    --The Family Bedstead

    CHAPTER XVI
    The Mormon Bible--Proofs of its Divinity--Plagiarism of its Authors--
    Story of Nephi--Wonderful Battle--Kilkenny Cats Outdone

    CHAPTER XVII.
    Three Sides to all Questions--Everything "A Quarter"--Shriveled Up--
    Emigrants and White Shirts at a Discount--"Forty-Niners"--Above Par--Real
    Happiness

    CHAPTER XVIII.
    Alkali Desert--Romance of Crossing Dispelled--Alkali Dust--Effect on the
    Mules--Universal Thanksgiving

    CHAPTER XIX.
    The Digger Indians Compared with the Bushmen of Africa--Food, Life and
    Characteristics--Cowardly Attack on a Stage Coach--A Brave Driver--The
    Noble Red Man

    CHAPTER XX.
    The Great American Desert--Forty Miles on Bones--Lakes Without Outlets--
    Greely's Remarkable Ride--Hank Monk, the Renowned Driver--Fatal Effects
    of "Corking" a Story--Bald-Headed Anecdote

    CHAPTER XXI.
    Alkali Dust--Desolation and Contemplation--Carson City--Our Journey
    Ended--We are Introduced to Several Citizens--A Strange Rebuke--A Washoe
    Zephyr at Play--Its Office Hours--Governor's Palace--Government Offices--
    Our French Landlady Bridget O'Flannigan--Shadow Secrets--Cause for a
    Disturbance at Once--The Irish Brigade--Mrs. O'Flannigan's Boarders--The
    Surveying Expedition--Escape of the Tarantulas

    CHAPTER XXII.
    The Son of a Nabob--Start for Lake Tahoe--Splendor of the Views--Trip on
    the Lake--Camping Out--Reinvigorating Climate--Clearing a Tract of Land--
    Securing a Title--Outhouse and Fences

    CHAPTER XXIII.
    A Happy Life--Lake Tahoe and its Moods--Transparency of the Waters--A
    Catastrophe--Fire! Fire!--A Magnificent Spectacle--Homeless Again--We
    take to the Lake--A Storm--Return to Carson

    CHAPTER XXIV.
    Resolve to Buy a Horse--Horsemanship in Carson--A Temptation--Advice
    Given Me Freely--I Buy the Mexican Plug--My First Ride--A Good Bucker--I
    Loan the Plug--Experience of Borrowers--Attempts to Sell--Expense of the
    Experiment--A Stranger Taken In

    CHAPTER XXV.
    The Mormons in Nevada--How to Persuade a Loan from Them--Early History of
    the Territory--Silver Mines Discovered--The New Territorial Government--A
    Foreign One and a Poor One--Its Funny Struggles for Existence--No Credit,
    no Cash--Old Abe Currey Sustains it and its Officers--Instructions and
    Vouchers--An Indian's Endorsement--Toll-Gates

    CHAPTER XXVI.
    The Silver Fever--State of the Market--Silver Bricks--Tales Told--Off for
    the Humboldt Mines

    CHAPTER XXVII.
    Our manner of going--Incidents of the Trip--A Warm but Too Familiar a
    Bedfellow--Mr. Ballou Objects--Sunshine amid Clouds--Safely Arrived

    CHAPTER XXVIII.
    Arrive at the Mountains--Building Our Cabin--My First Prospecting Tour--
    My First Gold Mine--Pockets Filled With Treasures--Filtering the News to
    My Companions--The Bubble Pricked--All Not Gold That Glitters

    CHAPTER XXIX.
    Out Prospecting--A Silver Mine At Last--Making a Fortune With Sledge and
    Drill--A Hard Road to Travel--We Own in Claims--A Rocky Country

    CHAPTER XXX.
    Disinterested Friends--How "Feet" Were Sold--We Quit Tunnelling--A Trip
    to Esmeralda--My Companions--An Indian Prophesy--A Flood--Our Quarters
    During It

    CHAPTER XXXI.
    The Guests at "Honey Lake Smith's"--"Bully Old Arkansas"--"Our Landlord"-
    -Determined to Fight--The Landlord's Wife--The Bully Conquered by Her--
    Another Start--Crossing the Carson--A Narrow Escape--Following Our Own
    Track--A New Guide--Lost in the Snow

    CHAPTER XXXII.
    Desperate Situation--Attempts to Make a Fire--Our Horses leave us--We
    Find Matches--One, Two, Three and the Last--No Fire--Death Seems
    Inevitable--We Mourn Over Our Evil Lives--Discarded Vices--We Forgive
    Each Other--An Affectionate Farewell--The Sleep of Oblivion

    CHAPTER XXXIII.
    Return of Consciousness--Ridiculous Developments--A Station House--Bitter
    Feelings--Fruits of Repentance--Resurrected Vices

    CHAPTER XXXIV.
    About Carson--General Buncombe--Hyde vs. Morgan--How Hyde Lost His Ranch-
    -The Great Landslide Case--The Trial--General Buncombe in Court--A
    Wonderful Decision--A Serious Afterthought

    CHAPTER XXXV.
    A New Travelling Companion--All Full and No Accommodations--How Captain
    Nye found Room--and Caused Our Leaving to be Lamented--The Uses of
    Tunnelling--A Notable Example--We Go into the "Claim" Business and Fail--
    At the Bottom

    CHAPTER XXXVI.
    A Quartz Mill--Amalgamation--"Screening Tailings"--First Quartz Mill in
    Nevada--Fire Assay--A Smart Assayer--I stake for an advance

    CHAPTER XXXVII.
    The Whiteman Cement Mine--Story of its Discovery--A Secret Expedition--A
    Nocturnal Adventure--A Distressing Position--A Failure and a Week's
    Holiday

    CHAPTER XXXVIII.
    Mono Lake--Shampooing Made Easy--Thoughtless Act of Our Dog and the
    Results--Lye Water--Curiosities of the Lake--Free Hotel--Some Funny
    Incidents a Little Overdrawn

    CHAPTER XXXIX.
    Visit to the Islands in Lake Mono--Ashes and Desolation--Life Amid Death
    Our Boat Adrift--A Jump For Life--A Storm On the Lake--A Mass of Soap
    Suds--Geological Curiosities--A Week On the Sierras--A Narrow Escape From
    a Funny Explosion--"Stove Heap Gone"

    CHAPTER XL.
    The "Wide West" Mine--It is "Interviewed" by Higbie--A Blind Lead--Worth
    a Million--We are Rich At Last--Plans for the Future

    CHAPTER XLI.
    A Rheumatic Patient--Day Dreams--An Unfortunate Stumble--I Leave
    Suddenly--Another Patient--Higbie in the Cabin--Our Balloon Bursted--
    Worth Nothing--Regrets and Explanations--Our Third Partner

    CHAPTER XLII.
    What to do Next?--Obstacles I Had Met With--"Jack of All Trades"--Mining
    Again--Target Shooting--I Turn City Editor--I Succeed Finely

    CHAPTER XLIII.
    My Friend Boggs--The School Report--Boggs Pays Me An Old Debt--Virginia
    City

    CHAPTER XLIV.
    Flush Times--Plenty of Stock--Editorial Puffing--Stocks Given Me--Salting
    Mines--A Tragedian In a New Role

    CHAPTER XLV.
    Flush Times Continue--Sanitary Commission Fund--Wild Enthusiasm of the
    People--Would not wait to Contribute--The Sanitary Flour Sack--It is
    Carried to Gold Hill and Dayton--Final Reception in Virginia--Results of
    the Sale--A Grand Total

    CHAPTER XLVI.
    The Nabobs of Those Days--John Smith as a Traveler--Sudden Wealth--A
    Sixty-Thousand-Dollar Horse--A Smart Telegraph Operator--A Nabob in New
    York City--Charters an Omnibus--"Walk in, It's All Free"--"You Can't Pay
    a Cent"--"Hold On, Driver, I Weaken"--Sociability of New Yorkers

    CHAPTER XLVII.
    Buck Fanshaw's Death--The Cause Thereof--Preparations for His Burial--
    Scotty Briggs the Committee Man--He Visits the Minister--Scotty Can't
    Play His Hand--The Minister Gets Mixed--Both Begin to See--"All Down
    Again But Nine"--Buck Fanshaw as a Citizen--How To "Shook Your Mother"--
    The Funeral--Scotty Briggs as a Sunday School Teacher

    CHAPTER XLVIII.
    The First Twenty-Six Graves in Nevada--The Prominent Men of the County--
    The Man Who Had Killed His Dozen--Trial by Jury--Specimen Jurors--A
    Private Grave Yard--The Desperadoes--Who They Killed--Waking up the Weary
    Passenger--Satisfaction Without Fighting

    CHAPTER XLIX.
    Fatal Shooting Affray--Robbery and Desperate Affray--A Specimen City
    Official--A Marked Man--A Street Fight--Punishment of Crime

    CHAPTER L.
    Captain Ned Blakely--Bill Nookes Receives Desired Information--Killing of
    Blakely's Mate--A Walking Battery--Blakely Secures Nookes--Hang First and
    Be Tried Afterwards--Captain Blakely as a Chaplain--The First Chapter of
    Genesis Read at a Hanging--Nookes Hung--Blakely's Regrets

    CHAPTER LI.
    The Weekly Occidental--A Ready Editor--A Novel--A Concentration of
    Talent--The Heroes and the Heroines--The Dissolute Author Engaged--
    Extraordinary Havoc With the Novel--A Highly Romantic Chapter--The Lovers
    Separated--Jonah Out-done--A Lost Poem--The Aged Pilot Man--Storm On the
    Erie Canal--Dollinger the Pilot Man--Terrific Gale--Danger Increases--A
    Crisis Arrived--Saved as if by a Miracle

    CHAPTER LII.
    Freights to California--Silver Bricks--Under Ground Mines--Timber
    Supports--A Visit to the Mines--The Caved Mines--Total of Shipments in
    1863

    CHAPTER LIII.
    Jim Blaine and his Grandfather's Ram--Filkin's Mistake--Old Miss Wagner
    and her Glass Eye--Jacobs, the Coffin Dealer--Waiting for a Customer--His
    Bargain With Old Robbins--Robbins Sues for Damage and Collects--A New Use
    for Missionaries--The Effect--His Uncle Lem. and the Use Providence Made
    of Him--Sad Fate of Wheeler--Devotion of His Wife--A Model Monument--What
    About the Ram?

    CHAPTER LIV.
    Chinese in Virginia City--Washing Bills--Habit of Imitation--Chinese
    Immigration--A Visit to Chinatown--Messrs. Ah Sing, Hong Wo, See Yup, &c.

    CHAPTER LV.
    Tired of Virginia City--An Old Schoolmate--A Two Years' Loan--Acting as
    an Editor--Almost Receive an Offer--An Accident--Three Drunken Anecdotes
    --Last Look at Mt. Davidson--A Beautiful Incident

    CHAPTER LVI.
    Off for San Francisco--Western and Eastern Landscapes--The Hottest place
    on Earth--Summer and Winter

    CHAPTER LVII.
    California--Novelty of Seeing a Woman--"Well if it ain't a Child!"--One
    Hundred and Fifty Dollars for a Kiss--Waiting for a turn

    CHAPTER LVIII.
    Life in San Francisco--Worthless Stocks--My First Earthquake--Reportorial
    Instincts--Effects of the Shocks--Incidents and Curiosities--Sabbath
    Breakers--The Lodger and the Chambermaid--A Sensible Fashion to Follow--
    Effects of the Earthquake on the Ministers

    CHAPTER LIX.
    Poor Again--Slinking as a Business--A Model Collector--Misery loves
    Company--Comparing Notes for Comfort--A Streak of Luck--Finding a Dime--
    Wealthy by Comparison--Two Sumptuous Dinners

    CHAPTER LX.
    An Old Friend--An Educated Miner--Pocket Mining--Freaks of Fortune

    CHAPTER LXI.
    Dick Baker and his Cat--Tom Quartz's Peculiarities--On an Excursion--
    Appearance On His Return--A Prejudiced Cat--Empty Pockets and a Roving
    Life

    CHAPTER LXII.
    Bound for the Sandwich Islands--The Three Captains--The Old Admiral--His
    Daily Habits--His Well Fought Fields--An Unexpected Opponent--The Admiral
    Overpowered--The Victor Declared a Hero

    CHAPTER LXIII.
    Arrival at the Islands--Honolulu--What I Saw There--Dress and Habits of
    the Inhabitants--The Animal Kingdom--Fruits and Delightful Effects

    CHAPTER LXIV.
    An Excursion--Captain Phillips and his Turn-Out--A Horseback Ride--A
    Vicious Animal--Nature and Art--Interesting Ruins--All Praise to the
    Missionaries

    CHAPTER LXV.
    Interesting Mementoes and Relics--An Old Legend of a Frightful Leap--An
    Appreciative Horse--Horse Jockeys and Their Brothers--A New Trick--A Hay
    Merchant--Good Country for Horse Lovers

    CHAPTER LXVI.
    A Saturday Afternoon--Sandwich Island Girls on a Frolic--The Poi
    Merchant--Grand Gala Day--A Native Dance--Church Membership--Cats and
    Officials--An Overwhelming Discovery

    CHAPTER LXVII.
    The Legislature of the Island--What Its President Has Seen--Praying for
    an Enemy--Women's Rights--Romantic Fashions--Worship of the Shark--Desire
    for Dress--Full Dress--Not Paris Style--Playing Empire--Officials and
    Foreign Ambassadors--Overwhelming Magnificence

    CHAPTER LXVIII.
    A Royal Funeral--Order of Procession--Pomp and Ceremony--A Striking
    Contrast--A Sick Monarch--Human Sacrifices at His Death--Burial Orgies

    CHAPTER LXIX.
    "Once more upon the Waters."--A Noisy Passenger--Several Silent Ones--A
    Moonlight Scene--Fruits and Plantations

    CHAPTER LXX.
    A Droll Character--Mrs. Beazely and Her Son--Meditations on Turnips--A
    Letter from Horace Greeley--An Indignant Rejoinder--The Letter Translated
    but too Late

    CHAPTER LXXI.
    Kealakekua Bay--Death of Captain Cook--His Monument--Its Construction--On
    Board the Schooner

    CHAPTER LXXII.
    Young Kanakas in New England--A Temple Built by Ghosts--Female Bathers--I
    Stood Guard--Women and Whiskey--A Fight for Religion--Arrival of
    Missionaries

    CHAPTER LXXIII.
    Native Canoes--Surf Bathing--A Sanctuary--How Built--The Queen's Rock--
    Curiosities--Petrified Lava

    CHAPTER LXXIV.
    Visit to the Volcano--The Crater--Pillar of Fire--Magnificent Spectacle--
    A Lake of Fire

    CHAPTER LXXV.
    The North Lake--Fountains of Fire--Streams of Burning Lava--Tidal Waves

    CHAPTER LXXVI.
    A Reminiscence--Another Horse Story--My Ride with the Retired Milk Horse-
    -A Picnicing Excursion--Dead Volcano of Holeakala--Comparison with
    Vesuvius--An Inside View

    CHAPTER LXXVII.
    A Curious Character--A Series of Stories--Sad Fate of a Liar--Evidence of
    Insanity

    CHAPTER LXXVIII.
    Return to San Francisco--Ship Amusements--Preparing for Lecturing--
    Valuable Assistance Secured--My First Attempt--The Audience Carried--
    "All's Well that Ends Well."

    CHAPTER LXXIX.
    Highwaymen--A Predicament--A Huge Joke--Farewell to California--At Home
    Again--Great Changes. Moral.

    APPENDIX.
    A.--Brief Sketch of Mormon History
    B.--The Mountain Meadows Massacre
    C.--Concerning a Frightful Assassination that was never Consummated
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