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    Chapter XXIII

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    Chapter 26
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    If there is any life that is happier than the life we led on our timber
    ranch for the next two or three weeks, it must be a sort of life which I
    have not read of in books or experienced in person. We did not see a
    human being but ourselves during the time, or hear any sounds but those
    that were made by the wind and the waves, the sighing of the pines, and
    now and then the far-off thunder of an avalanche. The forest about us
    was dense and cool, the sky above us was cloudless and brilliant with
    sunshine, the broad lake before us was glassy and clear, or rippled and
    breezy, or black and storm-tossed, according to Nature's mood; and its
    circling border of mountain domes, clothed with forests, scarred with
    land-slides, cloven by canons and valleys, and helmeted with glittering
    snow, fitly framed and finished the noble picture. The view was always
    fascinating, bewitching, entrancing. The eye was never tired of gazing,
    night or day, in calm or storm; it suffered but one grief, and that was
    that it could not look always, but must close sometimes in sleep.

    We slept in the sand close to the water's edge, between two protecting
    boulders, which took care of the stormy night-winds for us. We never
    took any paregoric to make us sleep. At the first break of dawn we were
    always up and running foot-races to tone down excess of physical vigor
    and exuberance of spirits. That is, Johnny was--but I held his hat.
    While smoking the pipe of peace after breakfast we watched the sentinel
    peaks put on the glory of the sun, and followed the conquering light as
    it swept down among the shadows, and set the captive crags and forests
    free. We watched the tinted pictures grow and brighten upon the water
    till every little detail of forest, precipice and pinnacle was wrought in
    and finished, and the miracle of the enchanter complete. Then to
    "business."

    That is, drifting around in the boat. We were on the north shore.
    There, the rocks on the bottom are sometimes gray, sometimes white.
    This gives the marvelous transparency of the water a fuller advantage
    than it has elsewhere on the lake. We usually pushed out a hundred yards
    or so from shore, and then lay down on the thwarts, in the sun, and let
    the boat drift by the hour whither it would. We seldom talked.
    It interrupted the Sabbath stillness, and marred the dreams the luxurious
    rest and indolence brought. The shore all along was indented with deep,
    curved bays and coves, bordered by narrow sand-beaches; and where the
    sand ended, the steep mountain-sides rose right up aloft into space--rose
    up like a vast wall a little out of the perpendicular, and thickly wooded
    with tall pines.

    So singularly clear was the water, that where it was only twenty or
    thirty feet deep the bottom was so perfectly distinct that the boat
    seemed floating in the air! Yes, where it was even eighty feet deep.
    Every little pebble was distinct, every speckled trout, every hand's-
    breadth of sand. Often, as we lay on our faces, a granite boulder, as
    large as a village church, would start out of the bottom apparently, and
    seem climbing up rapidly to the surface, till presently it threatened to
    touch our faces, and we could not resist the impulse to seize an oar and
    avert the danger. But the boat would float on, and the boulder descend
    again, and then we could see that when we had been exactly above it, it
    must still have been twenty or thirty feet below the surface. Down
    through the transparency of these great depths, the water was not merely
    transparent, but dazzlingly, brilliantly so. All objects seen through it
    had a bright, strong vividness, not only of outline, but of every minute
    detail, which they would not have had when seen simply through the same
    depth of atmosphere. So empty and airy did all spaces seem below us, and
    so strong was the sense of floating high aloft in mid-nothingness, that
    we called these boat-excursions "balloon-voyages."

    We fished a good deal, but we did not average one fish a week. We could
    see trout by the thousand winging about in the emptiness under us, or
    sleeping in shoals on the bottom, but they would not bite--they could see
    the line too plainly, perhaps. We frequently selected the trout we
    wanted, and rested the bait patiently and persistently on the end of his
    nose at a depth of eighty feet, but he would only shake it off with an
    annoyed manner, and shift his position.

    We bathed occasionally, but the water was rather chilly, for all it
    looked so sunny. Sometimes we rowed out to the "blue water," a mile or
    two from shore. It was as dead blue as indigo there, because of the
    immense depth. By official measurement the lake in its centre is one
    thousand five hundred and twenty-five feet deep!

    Sometimes, on lazy afternoons, we lolled on the sand in camp, and smoked
    pipes and read some old well-worn novels. At night, by the camp-fire, we
    played euchre and seven-up to strengthen the mind--and played them with
    cards so greasy and defaced that only a whole summer's acquaintance with
    them could enable the student to tell the ace of clubs from the jack of
    diamonds.

    We never slept in our "house." It never recurred to us, for one thing;
    and besides, it was built to hold the ground, and that was enough. We
    did not wish to strain it.

    By and by our provisions began to run short, and we went back to the old
    camp and laid in a new supply. We were gone all day, and reached home
    again about night-fall, pretty tired and hungry. While Johnny was
    carrying the main bulk of the provisions up to our "house" for future
    use, I took the loaf of bread, some slices of bacon, and the coffee-pot,
    ashore, set them down by a tree, lit a fire, and went back to the boat to
    get the frying-pan. While I was at this, I heard a shout from Johnny,
    and looking up I saw that my fire was galloping all over the premises!
    Johnny was on the other side of it. He had to run through the flames to
    get to the lake shore, and then we stood helpless and watched the
    devastation.

    The ground was deeply carpeted with dry pine-needles, and the fire
    touched them off as if they were gunpowder. It was wonderful to see with
    what fierce speed the tall sheet of flame traveled! My coffee-pot was
    gone, and everything with it. In a minute and a half the fire seized
    upon a dense growth of dry manzanita chapparal six or eight feet high,
    and then the roaring and popping and crackling was something terrific.
    We were driven to the boat by the intense heat, and there we remained,
    spell-bound.

    Within half an hour all before us was a tossing, blinding tempest of
    flame! It went surging up adjacent ridges--surmounted them and
    disappeared in the canons beyond--burst into view upon higher and farther
    ridges, presently--shed a grander illumination abroad, and dove again--
    flamed out again, directly, higher and still higher up the mountain-side-
    -threw out skirmishing parties of fire here and there, and sent them
    trailing their crimson spirals away among remote ramparts and ribs and
    gorges, till as far as the eye could reach the lofty mountain-fronts were
    webbed as it were with a tangled network of red lava streams. Away
    across the water the crags and domes were lit with a ruddy glare, and the
    firmament above was a reflected hell!

    Every feature of the spectacle was repeated in the glowing mirror of the
    lake! Both pictures were sublime, both were beautiful; but that in the
    lake had a bewildering richness about it that enchanted the eye and held
    it with the stronger fascination.

    We sat absorbed and motionless through four long hours. We never thought
    of supper, and never felt fatigue. But at eleven o'clock the
    conflagration had traveled beyond our range of vision, and then darkness
    stole down upon the landscape again.

    Hunger asserted itself now, but there was nothing to eat. The provisions
    were all cooked, no doubt, but we did not go to see. We were homeless
    wanderers again, without any property. Our fence was gone, our house
    burned down; no insurance. Our pine forest was well scorched, the dead
    trees all burned up, and our broad acres of manzanita swept away. Our
    blankets were on our usual sand-bed, however, and so we lay down and went
    to sleep. The next morning we started back to the old camp, but while
    out a long way from shore, so great a storm came up that we dared not try
    to land. So I baled out the seas we shipped, and Johnny pulled heavily
    through the billows till we had reached a point three or four miles
    beyond the camp. The storm was increasing, and it became evident that it
    was better to take the hazard of beaching the boat than go down in a
    hundred fathoms of water; so we ran in, with tall white-caps following,
    and I sat down in the stern-sheets and pointed her head-on to the shore.
    The instant the bow struck, a wave came over the stern that washed crew
    and cargo ashore, and saved a deal of trouble. We shivered in the lee of
    a boulder all the rest of the day, and froze all the night through. In
    the morning the tempest had gone down, and we paddled down to the camp
    without any unnecessary delay. We were so starved that we ate up the
    rest of the Brigade's provisions, and then set out to Carson to tell them
    about it and ask their forgiveness. It was accorded, upon payment of
    damages.

    We made many trips to the lake after that, and had many a hair-breadth
    escape and blood-curdling adventure which will never be recorded in any
    history.
    Next Chapter
    Chapter 26
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