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    Chapter LXIV

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    Chapter 68
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    In my diary of our third day in Honolulu, I find this:

    I am probably the most sensitive man in Hawaii to-night--especially about
    sitting down in the presence of my betters. I have ridden fifteen or
    twenty miles on horse-back since 5 P.M. and to tell the honest truth, I
    have a delicacy about sitting down at all.

    An excursion to Diamond Head and the King's Coacoanut Grove was planned
    to-day--time, 4:30 P.M.--the party to consist of half a dozen gentlemen
    and three ladies. They all started at the appointed hour except myself.
    I was at the Government prison, (with Captain Fish and another whaleship-
    skipper, Captain Phillips,) and got so interested in its examination that
    I did not notice how quickly the time was passing. Somebody remarked
    that it was twenty minutes past five o'clock, and that woke me up. It
    was a fortunate circumstance that Captain Phillips was along with his
    "turn out," as he calls a top-buggy that Captain Cook brought here in
    1778, and a horse that was here when Captain Cook came. Captain Phillips
    takes a just pride in his driving and in the speed of his horse, and to
    his passion for displaying them I owe it that we were only sixteen
    minutes coming from the prison to the American Hotel--a distance which
    has been estimated to be over half a mile. But it took some fearful
    driving. The Captain's whip came down fast, and the blows started so
    much dust out of the horse's hide that during the last half of the
    journey we rode through an impenetrable fog, and ran by a pocket compass
    in the hands of Captain Fish, a whaler of twenty-six years experience,
    who sat there through the perilous voyage as self-possessed as if he had
    been on the euchre-deck of his own ship, and calmly said, "Port your
    helm--port," from time to time, and "Hold her a little free--steady--so--
    so," and "Luff--hard down to starboard!" and never once lost his presence
    of mind or betrayed the least anxiety by voice or manner. When we came
    to anchor at last, and Captain Phillips looked at his watch and said,
    "Sixteen minutes--I told you it was in her! that's over three miles an
    hour!" I could see he felt entitled to a compliment, and so I said I had
    never seen lightning go like that horse. And I never had.

    The landlord of the American said the party had been gone nearly an hour,
    but that he could give me my choice of several horses that could overtake
    them. I said, never mind--I preferred a safe horse to a fast one--I
    would like to have an excessively gentle horse--a horse with no spirit
    whatever--a lame one, if he had such a thing. Inside of five minutes I
    was mounted, and perfectly satisfied with my outfit. I had no time to
    label him "This is a horse," and so if the public took him for a sheep I
    cannot help it. I was satisfied, and that was the main thing. I could
    see that he had as many fine points as any man's horse, and so I hung my
    hat on one of them, behind the saddle, and swabbed the perspiration from
    my face and started. I named him after this island, "Oahu" (pronounced
    O-waw-hee). The first gate he came to he started in; I had neither whip
    nor spur, and so I simply argued the case with him. He resisted
    argument, but ultimately yielded to insult and abuse. He backed out of
    that gate and steered for another one on the other side of the street.
    I triumphed by my former process. Within the next six hundred yards he
    crossed the street fourteen times and attempted thirteen gates, and in
    the meantime the tropical sun was beating down and threatening to cave
    the top of my head in, and I was literally dripping with perspiration.
    He abandoned the gate business after that and went along peaceably
    enough, but absorbed in meditation. I noticed this latter circumstance,
    and it soon began to fill me with apprehension. I said to my self, this
    creature is planning some new outrage, some fresh deviltry or other--no
    horse ever thought over a subject so profoundly as this one is doing just
    for nothing. The more this thing preyed upon my mind the more uneasy I
    became, until the suspense became almost unbearable and I dismounted to
    see if there was anything wild in his eye--for I had heard that the eye
    of this noblest of our domestic animals is very expressive.

    I cannot describe what a load of anxiety was lifted from my mind when I
    found that he was only asleep. I woke him up and started him into a
    faster walk, and then the villainy of his nature came out again. He
    tried to climb over a stone wall, five or six feet high. I saw that I
    must apply force to this horse, and that I might as well begin first as
    last. I plucked a stout switch from a tamarind tree, and the moment he
    saw it, he surrendered. He broke into a convulsive sort of a canter,
    which had three short steps in it and one long one, and reminded me
    alternately of the clattering shake of the great earthquake, and the
    sweeping plunging of the Ajax in a storm.

    And now there can be no fitter occasion than the present to pronounce a
    left-handed blessing upon the man who invented the American saddle.
    There is no seat to speak of about it--one might as well sit in a shovel-
    -and the stirrups are nothing but an ornamental nuisance. If I were to
    write down here all the abuse I expended on those stirrups, it would make
    a large book, even without pictures. Sometimes I got one foot so far
    through, that the stirrup partook of the nature of an anklet; sometimes
    both feet were through, and I was handcuffed by the legs; and sometimes
    my feet got clear out and left the stirrups wildly dangling about my
    shins. Even when I was in proper position and carefully balanced upon
    the balls of my feet, there was no comfort in it, on account of my
    nervous dread that they were going to slip one way or the other in a
    moment. But the subject is too exasperating to write about.

    A mile and a half from town, I came to a grove of tall cocoanut trees,
    with clean, branchless stems reaching straight up sixty or seventy feet
    and topped with a spray of green foliage sheltering clusters of cocoa-
    nuts--not more picturesque than a forest of collossal ragged parasols,
    with bunches of magnified grapes under them, would be.

    I once heard a gouty northern invalid say that a cocoanut tree might be
    poetical, possibly it was; but it looked like a feather-duster struck by
    lightning. I think that describes it better than a picture--and yet,
    without any question, there is something fascinating about a cocoa-nut
    tree--and graceful, too.

    About a dozen cottages, some frame and the others of native grass,
    nestled sleepily in the shade here and there. The grass cabins are of a
    grayish color, are shaped much like our own cottages, only with higher
    and steeper roofs usually, and are made of some kind of weed strongly
    bound together in bundles. The roofs are very thick, and so are the
    walls; the latter have square holes in them for windows. At a little
    distance these cabins have a furry appearance, as if they might be made
    of bear skins. They are very cool and pleasant inside. The King's flag
    was flying from the roof of one of the cottages, and His Majesty was
    probably within. He owns the whole concern thereabouts, and passes his
    time there frequently, on sultry days "laying off." The spot is called
    "The King's Grove."

    Near by is an interesting ruin--the meagre remains of an ancient heathen
    temple--a place where human sacrifices were offered up in those old
    bygone days when the simple child of nature, yielding momentarily to sin
    when sorely tempted, acknowledged his error when calm reflection had
    shown it him, and came forward with noble frankness and offered up his
    grandmother as an atoning sacrifice--in those old days when the luckless
    sinner could keep on cleansing his conscience and achieving periodical
    happiness as long as his relations held out; long, long before the
    missionaries braved a thousand privations to come and make them
    permanently miserable by telling them how beautiful and how blissful a
    place heaven is, and how nearly impossible it is to get there; and showed
    the poor native how dreary a place perdition is and what unnecessarily
    liberal facilities there are for going to it; showed him how, in his
    ignorance he had gone and fooled away all his kinfolks to no purpose;
    showed him what rapture it is to work all day long for fifty cents to buy
    food for next day with, as compared with fishing for pastime and lolling
    in the shade through eternal Summer, and eating of the bounty that nobody
    labored to provide but Nature. How sad it is to think of the multitudes
    who have gone to their graves in this beautiful island and never knew
    there was a hell!

    This ancient temple was built of rough blocks of lava, and was simply a
    roofless inclosure a hundred and thirty feet long and seventy wide--
    nothing but naked walls, very thick, but not much higher than a man's
    head. They will last for ages no doubt, if left unmolested. Its three
    altars and other sacred appurtenances have crumbled and passed away years
    ago. It is said that in the old times thousands of human beings were
    slaughtered here, in the presence of naked and howling savages. If these
    mute stones could speak, what tales they could tell, what pictures they
    could describe, of fettered victims writhing under the knife; of massed
    forms straining forward out of the gloom, with ferocious faces lit up by
    the sacrificial fires; of the background of ghostly trees; of the dark
    pyramid of Diamond Head standing sentinel over the uncanny scene, and the
    peaceful moon looking down upon it through rifts in the cloud-rack!

    When Kamehameha (pronounced Ka-may-ha-may-ah) the Great--who was a sort
    of a Napoleon in military genius and uniform success--invaded this island
    of Oahu three quarters of a century ago, and exterminated the army sent
    to oppose him, and took full and final possession of the country, he
    searched out the dead body of the King of Oahu, and those of the
    principal chiefs, and impaled their heads on the walls of this temple.

    Those were savage times when this old slaughter-house was in its prime.
    The King and the chiefs ruled the common herd with a rod of iron; made
    them gather all the provisions the masters needed; build all the houses
    and temples; stand all the expenses, of whatever kind; take kicks and
    cuffs for thanks; drag out lives well flavored with misery, and then
    suffer death for trifling offences or yield up their lives on the
    sacrificial altars to purchase favors from the gods for their hard
    rulers. The missionaries have clothed them, educated them, broken up the
    tyrannous authority of their chiefs, and given them freedom and the right
    to enjoy whatever their hands and brains produce with equal laws for all,
    and punishment for all alike who transgress them. The contrast is so
    strong--the benefit conferred upon this people by the missionaries is so
    prominent, so palpable and so unquestionable, that the frankest
    compliment I can pay them, and the best, is simply to point to the
    condition of the Sandwich Islanders of Captain Cook's time, and their
    condition to-day.

    Their work speaks for itself.
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    Chapter 68
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