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    Chapter 5 - Page 2

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    the pediment of a tomb; there,
    where the street falls far below the level of the graves,
    a chimney has been trained up the back of a monument, and
    a red pot looks vulgarly over from behind. A damp smell
    of the graveyard finds its way into houses where workmen
    sit at meat. Domestic life on a small scale goes forward
    visibly at the windows. The very solitude and stillness
    of the enclosure, which lies apart from the town's
    traffic, serves to accentuate the contrast. As you walk
    upon the graves, you see children scattering crumbs to
    feed the sparrows; you hear people singing or washing
    dishes, or the sound of tears and castigation; the linen
    on a clothes-pole flaps against funereal sculpture; or
    perhaps the cat slips over the lintel and descends on a
    memorial urn. And as there is nothing else astir, these
    incongruous sights and noises take hold on the attention
    and exaggerate the sadness of the place.

    Greyfriars is continually overrun by cats. I have
    seen one afternoon, as many as thirteen of them seated on
    the grass beside old Milne, the Master Builder, all sleek
    and fat, and complacently blinking, as if they had fed
    upon strange meats. Old Milne was chaunting with the
    saints, as we may hope, and cared little for the company
    about his grave; but I confess the spectacle had an ugly
    side for me; and I was glad to step forward and raise my
    eyes to where the Castle and the roofs of the Old Town,
    and the spire of the Assembly Hall, stood deployed
    against the sky with the colourless precision of
    engraving. An open outlook is to be desired from a
    churchyard, and a sight of the sky and some of the
    world's beauty relieves a mind from morbid thoughts.

    I shall never forget one visit. It was a grey,
    dropping day; the grass was strung with rain-drops; and
    the people in the houses kept hanging out their shirts
    and petticoats and angrily taking them in again, as the
    weather turned from wet to fair and back again. A grave-
    digger, and a friend of his, a gardener from the country,
    accompanied me into one after another of the cells and
    little courtyards in which it gratified the wealthy of
    old days to enclose their old bones from neighbourhood.
    In one, under a sort of shrine, we found a forlorn human

    effigy, very realistically executed down to the detail of
    his ribbed stockings, and holding in his hand a ticket
    with the date of his demise. He looked most pitiful and
    ridiculous, shut up by himself in his aristocratic
    precinct, like a bad old boy or an inferior forgotten
    deity under a new dispensation; the burdocks grew
    familiarly about his feet, the rain dripped all round
    him; and the world maintained the most entire
    indifference as to who he was or whither he had gone.
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