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    Chapter 14 - Page 2

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    as much as thirty, and sometimes forty yards wide--but is split into
    three equal bodies of water, by stone dikes which throw the main
    volume, depth, and current into the central one. In low water these neat
    narrow-edged dikes project four or five inches above the surface, like
    the comb of a submerged roof, but in high water they are overflowed. A
    hatful of rain makes high water in the Neckar, and a basketful produces
    an overflow.

    There are dikes abreast the Schloss Hotel, and the current is violently
    swift at that point. I used to sit for hours in my glass cage, watching
    the long, narrow rafts slip along through the central channel, grazing
    the right-bank dike and aiming carefully for the middle arch of the
    stone bridge below; I watched them in this way, and lost all this time
    hoping to see one of them hit the bridge-pier and wreck itself sometime
    or other, but was always disappointed. One was smashed there one
    morning, but I had just stepped into my room a moment to light a pipe,
    so I lost it.

    While I was looking down upon the rafts that morning in Heilbronn, the
    daredevil spirit of adventure came suddenly upon me, and I said to my
    comrades:

    "_I_ am going to Heidelberg on a raft. Will you venture with me?"

    Their faces paled a little, but they assented with as good a grace as
    they could. Harris wanted to cable his mother--thought it his duty to
    do that, as he was all she had in this world--so, while he attended to
    this, I went down to the longest and finest raft and hailed the captain
    with a hearty "Ahoy, shipmate!" which put us upon pleasant terms at
    once, and we entered upon business. I said we were on a pedestrian tour
    to Heidelberg, and would like to take passage with him. I said this
    partly through young Z, who spoke German very well, and partly through
    Mr. X, who spoke it peculiarly. I can UNDERSTAND German as well as the
    maniac that invented it, but I TALK it best through an interpreter.

    The captain hitched up his trousers, then shifted his quid thoughtfully.
    Presently he said just what I was expecting he would say--that he had no
    license to carry passengers, and therefore was afraid the law would be
    after him in case the matter got noised about or any accident happened.
    So I CHARTERED the raft and the crew and took all the responsibilities

    on myself.

    With a rattling song the starboard watch bent to their work and hove
    the cable short, then got the anchor home, and our bark moved off with a
    stately stride, and soon was bowling along at about two knots an hour.

    Our party were grouped amidships. At first the talk was a little gloomy,
    and ran mainly upon the shortness of life, the uncertainty of it, the
    perils which beset it, and the need
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