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    Chapter 33 - Page 2

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    nowhere else when they were troubled: all frets and worries and
    chafings sank to sleep in the presence of the benignant serenity of the
    Alps; the Great Spirit of the Mountain breathed his own peace upon their
    hurt minds and sore hearts, and healed them; they could not think base
    thoughts or do mean and sordid things here, before the visible throne of
    God.

    Down the road a piece was a Kursaal--whatever that may be--and we
    joined the human tide to see what sort of enjoyment it might afford.
    It was the usual open-air concert, in an ornamental garden, with
    wines, beer, milk, whey, grapes, etc.--the whey and the grapes being
    necessaries of life to certain invalids whom physicians cannot repair,
    and who only continue to exist by the grace of whey or grapes. One of
    these departed spirits told me, in a sad and lifeless way, that there
    is no way for him to live but by whey, and dearly, dearly loved whey, he
    didn't know whey he did, but he did. After making this pun he died--that
    is the whey it served him.

    Some other remains, preserved from decomposition by the grape system,
    told me that the grapes were of a peculiar breed, highly medicinal in
    their nature, and that they were counted out and administered by the
    grape-doctors as methodically as if they were pills. The new patient,
    if very feeble, began with one grape before breakfast, took three
    during breakfast, a couple between meals, five at luncheon, three in the
    afternoon, seven at dinner, four for supper, and part of a grape just
    before going to bed, by way of a general regulator. The quantity was
    gradually and regularly increased, according to the needs and capacities
    of the patient, until by and by you would find him disposing of his one
    grape per second all the day long, and his regular barrel per day.

    He said that men cured in this way, and enabled to discard the grape
    system, never afterward got over the habit of talking as if they were
    dictating to a slow amanuensis, because they always made a pause between
    each two words while they sucked the substance out of an imaginary
    grape. He said these were tedious people to talk with. He said that men
    who had been cured by the other process were easily distinguished from
    the rest of mankind because they always tilted their heads back, between
    every two words, and swallowed a swig of imaginary whey. He said it was

    an impressive thing to observe two men, who had been cured by the two
    processes, engaged in conversation--said their pauses and accompanying
    movements were so continuous and regular that a stranger would think
    himself in the presence of a couple of automatic machines. One finds
    out a great many wonderful things, by traveling, if he stumbles upon the
    right person.

    I did not remain long
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