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    Table of Contents

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    Chapter 1
    CONTENTS

    CHAPTER I.
    The Party--Across America to Vancouver--On Board the Warrimo--Steamer
    Chairs-The Captain-Going Home under a Cloud--A Gritty Purser--The
    Brightest Passenger--Remedy for Bad Habits--The Doctor and the Lumbago
    --A Moral Pauper--Limited Smoking--Remittance-men.

    CHAPTER II.
    Change of Costume--Fish, Snake, and Boomerang Stories--Tests of Memory
    --A Brahmin Expert--General Grant's Memory--A Delicately Improper Tale

    CHAPTER III.
    Honolulu--Reminiscences of the Sandwich Islands--King Liholiho and His
    Royal Equipment--The Tabu--The Population of the Island--A Kanaka Diver
    --Cholera at Honolulu--Honolulu; Past and Present--The Leper Colony

    CHAPTER IV.
    Leaving Honolulu--Flying-fish--Approaching the Equator--Why the Ship Went
    Slow--The Front Yard of the Ship--Crossing the Equator--Horse Billiards
    or Shovel Board--The Waterbury Watch--Washing Decks--Ship Painters--The
    Great Meridian--The Loss of a Day--A Babe without a Birthday

    CHAPTER V.
    A lesson in Pronunciation--Reverence for Robert Burns--The Southern
    Cross--Troublesome Constellations--Victoria for a Name--Islands on the
    Map--Alofa and Fortuna--Recruiting for the Queensland Plantations
    --Captain Warren's NoteBook--Recruiting not thoroughly Popular

    CHAPTER VI.
    Missionaries Obstruct Business--The Sugar Planter and the Kanaka--The
    Planter's View--Civilizing the Kanaka The Missionary's View--The Result
    --Repentant Kanakas--Wrinkles--The Death Rate in Queensland

    CHAPTER VII.
    The Fiji Islands--Suva--The Ship from Duluth--Going Ashore--Midwinter in
    Fiji--Seeing the Governor--Why Fiji was Ceded to England--Old time
    Fijians--Convicts among the Fijians--A Case Where Marriage was a Failure
    Immortality with Limitations

    CHAPTER VIII.
    A Wilderness of Islands--Two Men without a Country--A Naturalist from New
    Zealand--The Fauna of Australasia--Animals, Insects, and Birds--The
    Ornithorhynchus--Poetry and Plagiarism

    CHAPTER IX.

    Close to Australia--Porpoises at Night--Entrance to Sydney Harbor--The
    Loss of the Duncan Dunbar--The Harbor--The City of Sydney--Spring-time in
    Australia--The Climate--Information for Travelers--The Size of Australia
    --A Dust-Storm and Hot Wind

    CHAPTER X.
    The Discovery of Australia--Transportation of Convicts--Discipline
    --English Laws, Ancient and Modern--Flogging Prisoners to Death--Arrival of
    Settlers--New South Wales Corps--Rum Currency--Intemperance Everywhere
    $100,000 for One Gallon of Rum--Development of the Country--Immense
    Resources

    CHAPTER XI.
    Hospitality of English-speaking People--Writers and their Gratitude--Mr.
    Gane and the Panegyrics--Population of Sydney An English City with
    American Trimming--"Squatters"--Palaces and Sheep Kingdoms--Wool and
    Mutton--Australians and Americans--Costermonger Pronunciation--England is
    "Home"--Table Talk--English and Colonial Audiences 124

    CHAPTER XII.
    Mr. X., a Missionary--Why Christianity Makes Slow Progress in India--A
    Large Dream--Hindoo Miracles and Legends--Sampson and Hanuman--The
    Sandstone Ridge--Where are the Gates?

    CHAPTER XIII.
    Public Works in Australasia--Botanical Garden of Sydney--Four Special
    Socialties--The Government House--A Governor and His Functions--The
    Admiralty House--The Tour of the Harbor--Shark Fishing--Cecil Rhodes'
    Shark and his First Fortune--Free Board for Sharks.

    CHAPTER XIV.
    Bad Health--To Melbourne by Rail--Maps Defective--The Colony of Victoria
    --A Round-trip Ticket from Sydney--Change Cars, from Wide to Narrow
    Gauge, a Peculiarity at Albury--Customs-fences--"My Word"--The Blue
    Mountains--Rabbit Piles--Government R. R. Restaurants--Duchesses for
    Waiters--"Sheep-dip"--Railroad Coffee--Things Seen and Not Seen

    CHAPTER XV.
    Wagga-Wagga--The Tichborne Claimant--A Stock Mystery--The Plan of the
    Romance--The Realization--The Henry Bascom Mystery--Bascom Hall--The
    Author's Death and Funeral

    CHAPTER XVI.
    Melbourne and its Attractions--The Melbourne Cup Races--Cup Day--Great
    Crowds--Clothes Regardless of Cost--The Australian Larrikin--Is He Dead?
    Australian Hospitality--Melbourne Wool-brokers--The Museums--The Palaces
    --The Origin of Melbourne

    CHAPTER XVII.
    The British Empire--Its Exports and Imports--The Trade of Australia--To
    Adelaide--Broken Hill Silver Mine--A Roundabout road--The Scrub and its
    Possibilities for the Novelist--The Aboriginal Tracker--A Test Case--How
    Does One Cow-Track Differ from Another?

    CHAPTER XVIII.
    Gum Trees--Unsociable Trees--Gorse and Broom--A universal Defect--An
    Adventurer--Wanted L200, got L20,000,000--A Vast Land Scheme--The
    Smash-up--The Corpse Got Up and Danced--A Unique Business by One Man
    --Buying the Kangaroo Skin--The Approach to Adelaide--Everything Comes to
    Him who Waits--A Healthy Religious sphere--What is the Matter with the
    Specter?

    CHAPTER XIX.

    The Botanical Gardens--Contributions from all Countries--The
    Zoological Gardens of Adelaide--The Laughing Jackass--The Dingo--A
    Misnamed Province--Telegraphing from Melbourne to San Francisco--A Mania
    for Holidays--The Temperature--The Death Rate--Celebration of the
    Reading of the Proclamation of 1836--Some old Settlers at the
    Commemoration--Their Staying Powers--The Intelligence of the Aboriginal
    --The Antiquity of the Boomerang

    CHAPTER XX.
    A Caller--A Talk about Old Times--The Fox Hunt--An Accurate Judgment of
    an Idiot--How We Passed the Custom Officers in Italy

    CHAPTER XXI.
    The "Weet-Weet"--Keeping down the Population--Victoria--Killing the
    Aboriginals--Pioneer Days in Queensland--Material for a Drama--The Bush
    --Pudding with Arsenic Revenge--A Right Spirit but a Wrong Method--Death of
    Donga Billy

    CHAPTER XXII.
    Continued Description of Aboriginals--Manly Qualities--Dodging Balls
    --Feats of Spring--Jumping--Where the Kangaroo Learned its Art 'Well
    Digging--Endurance--Surgery--Artistic Abilities--Fennimore Cooper's Last
    Chance--Australian Slang

    CHAPTER XXIII.
    To Horsham (Colony of Victoria)--Description of Horsham--At the Hotel
    --Pepper Tree-The Agricultural College, Forty Pupils--High Temperature
    --Width of Road in Chains, Perches, etc.--The Bird with a Forgettable
    Name--The Magpie and the Lady--Fruit Trees--Soils--Sheep Shearing--To Stawell
    --Gold Mining Country--$75,000 per Month Income and able to Keep House
    --Fine Grapes and Wine--The Dryest Community on Earth--The Three Sisters
    --Gum Trees and Water

    CHAPTER XXIV.

    Road to Ballarat--The City--Great Gold Strike, 1851--Rush for Australia
    --"Great Nuggets"--Taxation--Revolt and Victory--Peter Lalor and the
    Eureka Stockade--"Pencil Mark"--Fine Statuary at Ballarat--Population
    --Ballarat English

    CHAPTER XXV.
    Bound for Bendigo--The Priest at Castlemaine--Time Saved by Walking
    --Description of Bendigo--A Valuable Nugget--Perseverence and Success
    --Mr. Blank and His Influence--Conveyance of an Idea--I Had to Like the
    Irishman--Corrigan Castle, and the Mark Twain Club--My Bascom Mystery
    Solved

    CHAPTER XXVI.
    Where New Zealand Is--But Few Know--Things People Think They Know--The
    Yale Professor and His Visitor from N. Z.

    CHAPTER XXVII.
    The South Pole Swell--Tasmania--Extermination of the Natives--The Picture
    Proclamation--The Conciliator--The Formidable Sixteen

    CHAPTER XXVIII.
    When the Moment Comes the Man Appears--Why Ed. Jackson called on
    Commodore Vanderbilt--Their Interview--Welcome to the Child of His Friend
    --A Big Time but under Inspection--Sent on Important Business--A Visit to
    the Boys on the Boat

    CHAPTER XXIX:
    Tasmania, Early Days--Description of the Town of Hobart--An Englishman's
    Love of Home Surroundings--Neatest City on Earth--The Museum--A Parrot
    with an Acquired Taste--Glass Arrow Beads--Refuge for the Indigent too
    healthy

    CHAPTER XXX.
    Arrival at Bluff, N. Z.--Where the Rabbit Plague Began--The Natural Enemy
    of the Rabbit--Dunedin--A Lovely Town--Visit to Dr. Hockin--His Museum
    --A Liquified Caterpillar--The Unperfected Tape Worm--The Public Museum and
    Picture

    CHAPTER XXXI. The Express Train--"A Hell of a Hotel at Maryborough"
    --Clocks and Bells--Railroad Service.

    CHAPTER XXXII.
    Description of the Town of Christ Church--A Fine Museum--Jade-stone
    Trinkets--The Great Man--The First Maori in New Zealand--Women Voters
    --"Person" in New Zealand Law Includes Woman--Taming an Ornithorhynchus
    --A Voyage in the 'Flora' from Lyttelton--Cattle Stalls for Everybody
    --A Wonderful Time.

    CHAPTER XXXIII.
    The Town of Nelson--"The Mongatapu Murders," the Great Event of the Town
    --Burgess' Confession--Summit of Mount Eden--Rotorua and the Hot Lakes
    and Geysers--Thermal Springs District--Kauri Gum--Tangariwa Mountains

    CHAPTER XXXIV.
    The Bay of Gisborne--Taking in Passengers by the Yard Arm--The Green
    Ballarat Fly--False Teeth--From Napier to Hastings by the Ballarat Fly
    Train--Kauri Trees--A Case of Mental Telegraphy

    CHAPTER XXXV.
    Fifty Miles in Four Hours--Comfortable Cars--Town of Wauganui--Plenty of
    Maoris--On the Increase--Compliments to the Maoris--The Missionary Ways
    all Wrong--The Tabu among the Maoris--A Mysterious Sign--Curious
    War-monuments--Wellington

    CHAPTER XXXVI.
    The Poems of Mrs. Moore--The Sad Fate of William Upson--A Fellow Traveler
    Imitating the Prince of Wales--A Would-be Dude--Arrival at Sydney
    --Curious Town Names with Poem

    CHAPTER XXXVII.
    From Sydney for Ceylon--A Lascar Crew--A Fine Ship--Three Cats and a
    Basket of Kittens--Dinner Conversations--Veuve Cliquot Wine--At Anchor in
    King George's Sound Albany Harbor--More Cats--A Vulture on Board--Nearing
    the Equator again--Dressing for Dinner--Ceylon, Hotel Bristol--Servant
    Brampy--A Feminine Man--Japanese Jinriksha or Cart--Scenes in Ceylon--A
    Missionary School--Insincerity of Clothes

    CHAPTER XXXVIII.
    Steamer Rosettes to Bombay--Limes 14 cents a Barrel--Bombay, a Bewitching
    City--Descriptions of People and Dress--Woman as a Road Decoration
    --India, the Land of Dreams and Romance--Fourteen Porters to Carry Baggage
    --Correcting a Servant--Killing a Slave--Arranging a Bedroom--Three Hours'
    Work and a Terrible Racket--The Bird of Birds, the Indian Crow

    CHAPTER XXXIX.
    God Vishnu, 108 Names--Change of Titles or Hunting for an Heir--Bombay as
    a Kaleidoscope--The Native's Man Servant--Servants' Recommendations--How
    Manuel got his Name and his English--Satan--A Visit from God

    CHAPTER XL.
    The Government House at Malabar Point--Mansion of Kumar Shri Samatsin Hji
    Bahadur--The Indian Princess--A Difficult Game--Wardrobe and Jewels
    --Ceremonials--Decorations when Leaving--The Towers of Silence--A Funeral

    CHAPTER XLI.
    Jain Temple--Mr. Roychand's Bungalow--A Decorated Six-Gun Prince--Human
    Fireworks--European Dress, Past and Present--Complexions--Advantages with
    the Zulu--Festivities at the Bungalow-Nautch Dancers--Entrance of the
    Prince--Address to the Prince

    CHAPTER XLII.
    A Hindoo Betrothal, midnight, Sleepers on the ground, Home of the Bride
    of Twelve Years Dressed as a Boy--Illumination Nautch Girls--Imitating
    Snakes--Later--Illuminated Porch Filled with Sleepers--The Plague

    CHAPTER XLIII
    Murder Trial in Bombay--Confidence Swindlers--Some Specialities of India
    --The Plague, Juggernaut, Suttee, etc.--Everything on Gigantic Scale
    --India First in Everything--80 States, more Custom Houses than Cats--Rich
    Ground for Thug Society

    CHAPTER XLIV.
    Thug Book--Supplies for Traveling, Bedding, and other Freight--Scene at
    Railway Station--Making Way for White Man--Waiting Passengers, High and
    Low Caste, Touch in the cars--Our Car--Beds made up--Dreaming of Thugs
    --Baroda--Meet Friends--Indian Well--The Old Town--Narrow Streets--A Mad
    Elephant

    CHAPTER XLV.

    Elephant Riding--Howdahs--The New Palace--The Prince's Excursion--Gold
    and Silver Artillery--A Vice-royal Visit--Remarkable Dog--The Bench Show
    --Augustin Daly's Back Door--Fakeer

    CHAPTER XLVI.
    The Thugs--Government Efforts to Exterminate them--Choking a Victim A
    Fakeer Spared--Thief Strangled

    CHAPTER XLVII.
    Thugs, Continued--Record of Murders--A Joy of Hunting and Killing Men
    --Gordon Gumming--Killing an Elephant--Family Affection among Thugs
    --Burial Places

    CHAPTER XLVIII.
    Starting for Allahabad--Lower Berths in Sleepers--Elderly Ladies have
    Preference of Berths--An American Lady Takes One Anyhow--How Smythe Lost
    his Berth--How He Got Even--The Suttee

    CHAPTER XLIX.
    Pyjamas--Day Scene in India--Clothed in a Turban and a Pocket
    Handkerchief--Land Parceled Out--Established Village Servants--Witches in
    Families--Hereditary Midwifery--Destruction of Girl Babies--Wedding
    Display--Tiger-Persuader--Hailstorm Discourages--The Tyranny of the
    Sweeper--Elephant Driver--Water Carrier--Curious Rivers--Arrival at
    Allahabad--English Quarter--Lecture Hall Like a Snowstorm--Private
    Carriages--A Milliner--Early Morning--The Squatting Servant--A Religious
    Fair

    CHAPTER L.
    On the Road to Benares--Dust and Waiting--The Bejeweled Crowd--A Native
    Prince and his Guard--Zenana Lady--The Extremes of Fashion--The Hotel at
    Benares--An Annex a Mile Away--Doors in India--The Peepul Tree--Warning
    against Cold Baths--A Strange Fruit--Description of Benares--The
    Beginning of Creation--Pilgrims to Benares--A Priest with a Good Business
    Stand--Protestant Missionary--The Trinity Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu
    --Religion the Business at Benares

    CHAPTER LI.
    Benares a Religious Temple--A Guide for Pilgrims to Save Time in Securing
    Salvation

    CHAPTER LII.
    A Curious Way to Secure Salvation--The Banks of the Ganges--Architecture
    Represents Piety--A Trip on the River--Bathers and their Costumes
    --Drinking the Water--A Scientific Test of the Nasty Purifier--Hindoo Faith
    in the Ganges--A Cremation--Remembrances of the Suttee--All Life Sacred
    Except Human Life--The Goddess Bhowanee, and the Sacrificers--Sacred
    Monkeys--Ugly Idols Everywhere--Two White Minarets--A Great View with a
    Monkey in it--A Picture on the Water

    CHAPTER LIII.
    Still in Benares--Another Living God--Why Things are Wonderful--Sri 108
    Utterly Perfect--How He Came so--Our Visit to Sri--A Friendly Deity
    Exchanging Autographs and Books--Sri's Pupil--An Interesting Man
    --Reverence and Irreverence--Dancing in a Sepulchre

    CHAPTER LIV.
    Rail to Calcutta--Population--The "City of Palaces"--A Fluted
    Candle-stick--Ochterlony--Newspaper Correspondence--Average Knowledge of
    Countries--A Wrong Idea of Chicago--Calcutta and the Black Hole
    --Description of the Horrors--Those Who Lived--The Botanical Gardens--The
    Afternoon Turnout--Grand Review--Military Tournament--Excursion on the
    Hoogly--The Museum--What Winter Means Calcutta

    CHAPTER LV
    On the Road Again--Flannels in Order--Across Country--From Greenland's
    Icy Mountain--Swapping Civilization--No Field women in India--How it is
    in Other Countries--Canvas-covered Cars--The Tiger Country--My First Hunt
    Some Elephants Get Away--The Plains of India--The Ghurkas--Women for
    Pack-Horses--A Substitute for a Cab--Darjeeling--The Hotel--The Highest
    Thing in the Himalayas--The Club--Kinchinjunga and Mt. Everest
    --Thibetans--The Prayer Wheel--People Going to the Bazar

    CHAPTER LVI.
    On the Road Again--The Hand-Car--A Thirty-five-mile Slide--The Banyan
    Tree--A Dramatic Performance--The Railroad--The Half-way House--The Brain
    Fever Bird--The Coppersmith Bird--Nightingales and Cue Owls

    CHAPTER LVII.
    India the Most Extraordinary Country on Earth--Nothing Forgotten--The
    Land of Wonders--Annual Statistics Everywhere about Violence--Tiger vs.
    Man--A Handsome Fight--Annual Man Killing and Tiger Killing--Other
    Animals--Snakes--Insurance and Snake Tables--The Cobra Bite--Muzaffurpore
    --Dinapore--A Train that Stopped for Gossip--Six Hours for Thirty-five
    Miles--A Rupee to the Engineer--Ninety Miles an Hour--Again to Benares,
    the Piety Hive To Lucknow

    CHAPTER LVIII.
    The Great Mutiny--The Massacre in Cawnpore--Terrible Scenes in Lucknow
    --The Residency--The Siege

    CHAPTER LIX.
    A Visit to the Residency--Cawnpore--The Adjutant Bird and the Hindoo
    Corpse--The Tai Mahal--The True Conception--The Ice Storm--True Gems
    --Syrian Fountains--An Exaggerated Niagara

    CHAPTER LX.
    To Lahore--The Governor's Elephant--Taking a Ride-No Danger from
    Collision--Rawal Pindi--Back to Delhi--An Orientalized Englishman
    --Monkeys and the Paint-pot--Monkey Crying over my Note-book--Arrival at
    Jeypore--In Rajputana--Watching Servants--The Jeypore Hotel--Our Old and
    New Satan--Satan as a Liar--The Museum--A Street Show--Blocks of Houses
    --A Religious Procession

    CHAPTER LXI.
    Methods in American Deaf and Dumb Asylums--Methods in the Public Schools
    --A Letter from a youth in Punjab--Highly Educated Service--A Damage to
    the Country--A Little Book from Calcutta--Writing Poor English
    --Embarrassed by a Beggar Girl--A Specimen Letter--An Application for
    Employment--A Calcutta School Examination--Two Samples of
    Literature

    CHAPTER LXII.
    Sail from Calcutta to Madras--Thence to Ceylon--Thence for Mauritius
    --The Indian Ocean--Our Captain's Peculiarity The Scot Has one too--The
    Flying-fish that Went Hunting in the Field--Fined for Smuggling--Lots of
    pets on Board--The Color of the Sea--The Most Important Member of
    Nature's Family--The Captain's Story of Cold Weather--Omissions in the
    Ship's Library--Washing Decks--Pyjamas on Deck--The Cat's Toilet--No
    Interest in the Bulletin--Perfect Rest--The Milky Way and the Magellan
    Clouds--Mauritius--Port Louis--A Hot Country--Under French Control
    --A Variety of People and Complexions--Train to Curepipe--A Wonderful
    Office-holder--The Wooden Peg Ornament--The Prominent Historical Event of
    Mauritius--"Paul and Virginia"--One of Virginia's Wedding Gifts--Heaven
    Copied after Mauritius--Early History of Mauritius--Quarantines
    --Population of all Kinds--What the World Consists of--Where Russia and
    Germany are--A Picture of Milan Cathedral--Newspapers--The Language--Best
    Sugar in the World--Literature of Mauritius

    CHAPTER LXIII.
    Port Louis--Matches no Good--Good Roads--Death Notices--Why European
    Nations Rob Each Other--What Immigrants to Mauritius Do--Population
    --Labor Wages--The Camaron--The Palmiste and other Eatables--Monkeys--The
    Cyclone of 1892--Mauritius a Sunday Landscape

    CHAPTER LXIV.
    The Steamer "Arundel Castle"--Poor Beds in Ships--The Beds in Noah's Ark
    --Getting a Rest in Europe--Ship in Sight--Mozambique Channel--The
    Engineer and the Band--Thackeray's "Madagascar"--Africanders Going Home
    --Singing on the After Deck--An Out-of-Place Story--Dynamite Explosion in
    Johannesburg--Entering Delagoa Bay--Ashore--A Hot Winter--Small Town--No
    Sights--No Carriages--Working Women--Barnum's Purchase of Shakespeare's
    Birthplace, Jumbo, and the Nelson Monument--Arrival at Durban

    CHAPTER LXV.
    Royal Hotel Durban--Bells that Did not Ring--Early Inquiries for Comforts
    --Change of Temperature after Sunset-Rickhaws--The Hotel Chameleon
    --Natives not out after the Bell--Preponderance of Blacks in Natal--Hair
    Fashions in Natal--Zulus for Police--A Drive round the Berea--The Cactus
    and other Trees--Religion a Vital Matter--Peculiar Views about Babies
    --Zulu Kings--A Trappist Monastery--Transvaal Politics--Reasons why the
    Trouble came About

    CHAPTER LXVI.
    Jameson over the Border--His Defeat and Capture--Sent to England for
    Trial--Arrest of Citizens by the Boers--Commuted sentences--Final Release
    of all but Two--Interesting Days for a Stranger--Hard to Understand
    Either Side--What the Reformers Expected to Accomplish--How They Proposed
    to do it--Testimonies a Year Later--A "Woman's Part"--The Truth of the
    South African Situation--"Jameson's Ride"--A Poem

    CHAPTER LXVIL
    Jameson's Raid--The Reform Committee's Difficult Task--Possible Plans
    --Advice that Jameson Ought to Have--The War of 1881 and its Lessons
    --Statistics of Losses of the Combatants--Jameson's Battles--Losses on Both
    Sides--The Military Errors--How the Warfare Should Have Been Carried on
    to Be Successful

    CHAPTER LXVIII.
    Judicious Mr. Rhodes--What South Africa Consists of--Johannesburg--The
    Gold Mines--The Heaven of American Engineers--What the Author Knows about
    Mining--Description of the Boer--What Should be Expected of Him--What Was
    A Dizzy Jump for Rhodes--Taxes--Rhodesian Method of Reducing Native
    Population--Journeying in Cape Colony--The Cars--The Country--The
    Weather--Tamed Blacks--Familiar Figures in King William's Town--Boer
    Dress--Boer Country Life--Sleeping Accommodations--The Reformers in Boer
    Prison--Torturing a Black Prisoner

    CHAPTER LXIX.
    An Absorbing Novelty--The Kimberley Diamond Mines--Discovery of Diamonds
    --The Wronged Stranger--Where the Gems Are--A Judicious Change of
    Boundary--Modern Machinery and Appliances--Thrilling Excitement in
    Finding a Diamond--Testing a Diamond--Fences--Deep Mining by Natives in
    the Compound--Stealing--Reward for the Biggest Diamond--A Fortune in
    Wine--The Great Diamond--Office of the De Beer Co.--Sorting the Gems
    --Cape Town--The Most Imposing Man in British Provinces--Various Reasons
    for his Supremacy--How He Makes Friends

    CONCLUSION.
    Table Rock--Table Bay--The Castle--Government and Parliament--The Club
    --Dutch Mansions and their Hospitality--Dr. John Barry and his Doings--On
    the Ship Norman--Madeira--Arrived in Southampton
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