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    Chapter 1

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    A man may have no bad habits and have worse.
    --Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

    The starting point of this lecturing-trip around the world was Paris,
    where we had been living a year or two.

    We sailed for America, and there made certain preparations. This took
    but little time. Two members of my family elected to go with me. Also a
    carbuncle. The dictionary says a carbuncle is a kind of jewel. Humor is
    out of place in a dictionary.

    We started westward from New York in midsummer, with Major Pond to manage
    the platform-business as far as the Pacific. It was warm work, all the
    way, and the last fortnight of it was suffocatingly smoky, for in Oregon
    and Columbia the forest fires were raging. We had an added week of smoke
    at the seaboard, where we were obliged awhile for our ship. She had been
    getting herself ashore in the smoke, and she had to be docked and
    repaired.

    We sailed at last; and so ended a snail-paced march across the continent,
    which had lasted forty days.

    We moved westward about mid-afternoon over a rippled and summer sea; an
    enticing sea, a clean and cool sea, and apparently a welcome sea to all
    on board; it certainly was to the distressful dustings and smokings and
    swelterings of the past weeks. The voyage would furnish a three-weeks
    holiday, with hardly a break in it. We had the whole Pacific Ocean in
    front of us, with nothing to do but do nothing and be comfortable. The
    city of Victoria was twinkling dim in the deep heart of her smoke-cloud,
    and getting ready to vanish and now we closed the field-glasses and sat
    down on our steamer chairs contented and at peace. But they went to
    wreck and ruin under us and brought us to shame before all the
    passengers. They had been furnished by the largest furniture-dealing
    house in Victoria, and were worth a couple of farthings a dozen, though
    they had cost us the price of honest chairs. In the Pacific and Indian
    Oceans one must still bring his own deck-chair on board or go without,
    just as in the old forgotten Atlantic times--those Dark Ages of sea
    travel.

    Ours was a reasonably comfortable ship, with the customary sea-going fare

    --plenty of good food furnished by the Deity and cooked by the devil.
    The discipline observable on board was perhaps as good as it is anywhere
    in the Pacific and Indian Oceans. The ship was not very well arranged
    for tropical service; but that is nothing, for this is the rule for ships
    which ply in the tropics. She had an over-supply of cockroaches, but
    this is also the rule with ships doing business in the summer seas--at
    least such as have been long in service. Our young captain was a very
    handsome man, tall and perfectly formed, the very figure to show up a
    smart uniform's best effects. He was
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