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    Chapter 48

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    Grief can take care of itself; but to get the full value of a joy you
    must have somebody to divide it with.
    --Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

    We left Bombay for Allahabad by a night train. It is the custom of the
    country to avoid day travel when it can conveniently be done. But there
    is one trouble: while you can seemingly "secure" the two lower berths by
    making early application, there is no ticket as witness of it, and no
    other producible evidence in case your proprietorship shall chance to be
    challenged. The word "engaged" appears on the window, but it doesn't
    state who the compartment is engaged, for. If your Satan and your Barney
    arrive before somebody else's servants, and spread the bedding on the two
    sofas and then stand guard till you come, all will be well; but if they
    step aside on an errand, they may find the beds promoted to the two
    shelves, and somebody else's demons standing guard over their master's
    beds, which in the meantime have been spread upon your sofas.

    You do not pay anything extra for your sleeping place; that is where the
    trouble lies. If you buy a fare-ticket and fail to use it, there is room
    thus made available for someone else; but if the place were secured to
    you it would remain vacant, and yet your ticket would secure you another
    place when you were presently ready to travel.

    However, no explanation of such a system can make it seem quite rational
    to a person who has been used to a more rational system. If our people
    had the arranging of it, we should charge extra for securing the place,
    and then the road would suffer no loss if the purchaser did not occupy
    it.

    The present system encourages good manners--and also discourages them.
    If a young girl has a lower berth and an elderly lady comes in, it is
    usual for the girl to offer her place to this late comer; and it is usual
    for the late comer to thank her courteously and take it. But the thing
    happens differently sometimes. When we were ready to leave Bombay my
    daughter's satchels were holding possession of her berth--a lower one.
    At the last moment, a middle-aged American lady swarmed into the
    compartment, followed by native porters laden with her baggage. She was
    growling and snarling and scolding, and trying to make herself

    phenomenally disagreeable; and succeeding. Without a word, she hoisted
    the satchels into the hanging shelf, and took possession of that lower
    berth.

    On one of our trips Mr. Smythe and I got out at a station to walk up and
    down, and when we came back Smythe's bed was in the hanging shelf and an
    English cavalry officer was in bed on the sofa which he had lately been
    occupying. It was mean to be glad about it, but it is the way we are
    made; I could not have
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