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    Chapter 35 - Page 2

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    Constantinople to
    await our return. To read the description of him in that passport and
    then look at me, any man could see that I was no more like him than I am
    like Hercules. So I went into the harbor of Sebastopol with fear and
    trembling--full of a vague, horrible apprehension that I was going to be
    found out and hanged. But all that time my true passport had been
    floating gallantly overhead--and behold it was only our flag. They never
    asked us for any other.

    We have had a great many Russian and English gentlemen and ladies on
    board to-day, and the time has passed cheerfully away. They were all
    happy-spirited people, and I never heard our mother tongue sound so
    pleasantly as it did when it fell from those English lips in this far-off
    land. I talked to the Russians a good deal, just to be friendly, and
    they talked to me from the same motive; I am sure that both enjoyed the
    conversation, but never a word of it either of us understood. I did most
    of my talking to those English people though, and I am sorry we can not
    carry some of them along with us.

    We have gone whithersoever we chose, to-day, and have met with nothing
    but the kindest attentions. Nobody inquired whether we had any passports
    or not.

    Several of the officers of the Government have suggested that we take the
    ship to a little watering-place thirty miles from here, and pay the
    Emperor of Russia a visit. He is rusticating there. These officers said
    they would take it upon themselves to insure us a cordial reception.
    They said if we would go, they would not only telegraph the Emperor, but
    send a special courier overland to announce our coming. Our time is so
    short, though, and more especially our coal is so nearly out, that we
    judged it best to forego the rare pleasure of holding social intercourse
    with an Emperor.

    Ruined Pompeii is in good condition compared to Sebastopol. Here, you
    may look in whatsoever direction you please, and your eye encounters
    scarcely any thing but ruin, ruin, ruin!--fragments of houses, crumbled
    walls, torn and ragged hills, devastation every where! It is as if a
    mighty earthquake had spent all its terrible forces upon this one little

    spot. For eighteen long months the storms of war beat upon the helpless
    town, and left it at last the saddest wreck that ever the sun has looked
    upon. Not one solitary house escaped unscathed--not one remained
    habitable, even. Such utter and complete ruin one could hardly conceive
    of. The houses had all been solid, dressed stone structures; most of
    them were ploughed through and through by cannon balls--unroofed and
    sliced down from eaves to foundation--and now a row of them, half a mile
    long, looks merely like an endless procession of battered chimneys. No
    semblance of a
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