Chapter 39

39.

Gay life at Monterey Mexican horsemen A bold dragoon Use of the

lasso Vaqueros Noosing a bear Fight between a bull and a

bear Departure from Monterey Indian horse stealers Outrages

committed by the travellers Indignation of Captain Bonneville

THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the

inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and

offered extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any

mechanic art. When they went into the country, too, they were

kindly treated by the priests at the missions; who are always

hospitable to strangers, whatever may be their rank or religion.

They had no lack of provisions; being permitted to kill as many

as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze the

country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the

owners. They attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the

purposes of their expedition; squandered away, freely, the

property that did not belong to them; and, in a word, revelled in

a perfect fool's paradise.

What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the

Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in

this country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and

halfbreeds of California spend the greater part of their time in

the saddle. They are fearless riders; and their daring feats upon

unbroken colts and wild horses, astonished our trappers; though

accustomed to the bold riders of the prairies.

A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the

equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious

caballero of Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is

represented as arrayed in a round blue jacket, with red cuffs and

collar; blue velvet breeches, unbuttoned at the knees to show his

white stockings; bottinas of deer skin; a round-crowned

Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel of his saddle,

he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round the lock.

He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries a

bull's hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before

and behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of

Moorish fashion, and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by

chains, jingle at his heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted,

he considers himself the glory of California, and the terror of

the universe.

The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic];

that is to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with

which they are expert, almost to a miracle. The laso,