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    Chapter 59 - Page 2

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    attracted by a most striking promontory rising over five hundred feet--
    the ideal mountain pyramid. Its conic shape--thickly-wooded surface
    girding its sides, and its apex like that of a cone, cause the spectator
    to wonder at nature's workings. From its dizzy heights superb views
    of the forests, streams, bluffs, hills and dales below and beyond
    for miles are brought within its focus. What grander river scenery
    can be conceived, as we gaze upon this enchanting landscape,
    from the uppermost point of these bluffs upon the valleys below?
    The primeval wildness and awful loneliness of these sublime creations
    of nature and nature's God, excite feelings of unbounded admiration,
    and the recollection of which can never be effaced from the memory,
    as we view them in any direction.

    'Next we have the Lion's Head and the Lioness's Head, carved by
    nature's hand, to adorn and dominate the beauteous stream;
    and then anon the river widens, and a most charming and magnificent
    view of the valley before us suddenly bursts upon our vision;
    rugged hills, clad with verdant forests from summit to base,
    level prairie lands, holding in their lap the beautiful Wabasha,
    City of the Healing Waters, puissant foe of Bright's disease,
    and that grandest conception of nature's works, incomparable Lake Pepin--
    these constitute a picture whereon the tourist's eye may gaze
    uncounted hours, with rapture unappeased and unappeasable.

    'And so we glide along; in due time encountering those majestic domes,
    the mighty Sugar Loaf, and the sublime Maiden's Rock--which latter,
    romantic superstition has invested with a voice; and oft-times
    as the birch canoe glides near, at twilight, the dusky paddler
    fancies he hears the soft sweet music of the long-departed Winona,
    darling of Indian song and story.

    'Then Frontenac looms upon our vision, delightful resort of jaded
    summer tourists; then progressive Red Wing; and Diamond Bluff, impressive and
    preponderous in its lone sublimity; then Prescott and the St. Croix;
    and anon we see bursting upon us the domes and steeples of St. Paul,
    giant young chief of the North, marching with seven-league stride in
    the van of progress, banner-bearer of the highest and newest civilization,
    carving his beneficent way with the tomahawk of commercial enterprise,
    sounding the warwhoop of Christian culture, tearing off the reeking scalp
    of sloth and superstition to plant there the steam-plow and the school-house--
    ever in his front stretch arid lawlessness, ignorance, crime, despair;

    ever in his wake bloom the jail, the gallows, and the pulpit; and ever----'

    'Have you ever traveled with a panorama?'

    'I have formerly served in that capacity.'

    My suspicion was confirmed.

    'Do you still
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