Chapter 13

CHAPTER XIII.

HOSPITALITY UNDER THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

It ought to have been night-time, but under the 65th parallel therewas nothing surprising in the nocturnal polar light. In Icelandduring the months of June and July the sun does not set.

But the temperature was much lower. I was cold and more hungry thancold. Welcome was the sight of the boër which was hospitably openedto receive us.

It was a peasant's house, but in point of hospitality it was equal toa king's. On our arrival the master came with outstretched hands, andwithout more ceremony he beckoned us to follow him.

To accompany him down the long, narrow, dark passage, would have beenimpossible. Therefore, we followed, as he bid us. The building wasconstructed of roughly squared timbers, with rooms on both sides,four in number, all opening out into the one passage: these were thekitchen, the weaving shop, the badstofa, or family sleeping-room, andthe visitors' room, which was the best of all. My uncle, whose heighthad not been thought of in building the house, of course hit his headseveral times against the beams that projected from the ceilings.

We were introduced into our apartment, a large room with a floor ofearth stamped hard down, and lighted by a window, the panes of whichwere formed of sheep's bladder, not admitting too much light. Thesleeping accommodation consisted of dry litter, thrown into twowooden frames painted red, and ornamented with Icelandic sentences. Iwas hardly expecting so much comfort; the only discomfort proceededfrom the strong odour of dried fish, hung meat, and sour milk, ofwhich my nose made bitter complaints.

When we had laid aside our travelling wraps the voice of the host washeard inviting us to the kitchen, the only room where a fire waslighted even in the severest cold.

My uncle lost no time in obeying the friendly call, nor was I slackin following.

The kitchen chimney was constructed on the ancient pattern; in themiddle of the room was a stone for a hearth, over it in the roof ahole to let the smoke escape. The kitchen was also a dining-room.

At our entrance the host, as if he had never seen us, greeted us withthe word "_Sællvertu,_" which means "be happy," and came and kissedus on the cheek.

After him his wife pronounced the same words, accompanied with thesame ceremonial; then the two placing their hands upon their hearts,inclined profoundly before us.

I hasten to inform the reader that this Icelandic lady was the motherof nineteen children, all, big and little, swarming in the midst ofthe dense wreaths of smoke with which the fire on the hearth filledthe chamber. Every moment I noticed a fair-haired and rathermelancholy face peeping out of the rolling volumes of smoke - theywere a perfect cluster of unwashed angels.

My uncle and I treated this little tribe with kindness; and in a veryshort time we each