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    Chapter 13 - Page 2

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    had three or four of these brats on our shoulders,as many on our laps, and the rest between our knees. Those who couldspeak kept repeating "_Sællvertu,_" in every conceivable tone; thosethat could not speak made up for that want by shrill cries.

    This concert was brought to a close by the announcement of dinner. Atthat moment our hunter returned, who had been seeing his horsesprovided for; that is to say, he had economically let them loose inthe fields, where the poor beasts had to content themselves with thescanty moss they could pull off the rocks and a few meagre sea weeds,and the next day they would not fail to come of themselves and resumethe labours of the previous day.

    "_Sællvertu,_" said Hans.

    Then calmly, automatically, and dispassionately he kissed the host,the hostess, and their nineteen children.

    This ceremony over, we sat at table, twenty-four in number, andtherefore one upon another. The luckiest had only two urchins upontheir knees.

    But silence reigned in all this little world at the arrival of thesoup, and the national taciturnity resumed its empire even over thechildren. The host served out to us a soup made of lichen and by nomeans unpleasant, then an immense piece of dried fish floating inbutter rancid with twenty years' keeping, and, therefore, accordingto Icelandic gastronomy, much preferable to fresh butter. Along withthis, we had 'skye,' a sort of clotted milk, with biscuits, and aliquid prepared from juniper berries; for beverage we had a thin milkmixed with water, called in this country 'blanda.' It is not for meto decide whether this diet is wholesome or not; all I can say is,that I was desperately hungry, and that at dessert I swallowed to thevery last gulp of a thick broth made from buckwheat.

    As soon as the meal was over the children disappeared, and theirelders gathered round the peat fire, which also burnt suchmiscellaneous fuel as briars, cow-dung, and fishbones. After thislittle pinch of warmth the different groups retired to theirrespective rooms. Our hostess hospitably offered us her assistance inundressing, according to Icelandic usage; but on our gracefullydeclining, she insisted no longer, and I was able at last to curlmyself up in my mossy bed.

    At five next morning we bade our host farewell, my uncle withdifficulty persuading him to accept a proper remuneration; and Hanssignalled the start.


    At a hundred yards from Gardär the soil began to change its aspect;it became boggy and less favourable to progress. On our right thechain of mountains was indefinitely prolonged like an immense systemof natural fortifications, of which we were following thecounter-scarp or lesser steep; often we were met by streams, which wehad to ford with great care, not to wet our packages.

    The desert became wider and more hideous; yet from time to time weseemed to descry a human figure that fled at our approach,
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